- The Cause: Often, this is due to a pH lockout (see Yellowing on New Growth) or cold temperatures at the root zone. It can also happen if the plant is “root-bound” in a pot that is too small.The Fix: Check your pH first. Ensure root zone temperatures are above 65°F. If the plant has been in its pot for a long time, consider transplanting it to a larger container.
- The Cause: Nutrient Burn. You are feeding your plants too strong of a nutrient solution. The tips are the first place to show the damage.The Fix: Flush your medium with plain, pH-balanced water. For your next feeding, reduce the nutrient strength by 50% and gradually work your way back up. It’s always better to underfeed than to overfeed.
Problem: Stunted Growth
If your plant just isn’t getting bigger, it could be a few things.
- The Cause: Often, this is due to a pH lockout (see Yellowing on New Growth) or cold temperatures at the root zone. It can also happen if the plant is “root-bound” in a pot that is too small.The Fix: Check your pH first. Ensure root zone temperatures are above 65°F. If the plant has been in its pot for a long time, consider transplanting it to a larger container.
- The Cause: Nutrient Burn. You are feeding your plants too strong of a nutrient solution. The tips are the first place to show the damage.The Fix: Flush your medium with plain, pH-balanced water. For your next feeding, reduce the nutrient strength by 50% and gradually work your way back up. It’s always better to underfeed than to overfeed.
Problem: Stunted Growth
If your plant just isn’t getting bigger, it could be a few things.
- The Cause: Often, this is due to a pH lockout (see Yellowing on New Growth) or cold temperatures at the root zone. It can also happen if the plant is “root-bound” in a pot that is too small.The Fix: Check your pH first. Ensure root zone temperatures are above 65°F. If the plant has been in its pot for a long time, consider transplanting it to a larger container.
- Yellowing on Lower, Older Leaves: This is a classic sign of Nitrogen deficiency. The plant is moving mobile nutrients from its old leaves to its new growth. You may need to increase your “Veg” nutrient feeding slightly.Yellowing on New Growth (Top of Plant): This often indicates an Iron deficiency, usually caused by an incorrect pH level in your water, which “locks out” the nutrient. Check and adjust your water’s pH to the 5.8-6.5 range.
Problem: Burnt, Crispy Leaf Tips
The tips of your leaves look like they’ve been dipped in fire.
- The Cause: Nutrient Burn. You are feeding your plants too strong of a nutrient solution. The tips are the first place to show the damage.The Fix: Flush your medium with plain, pH-balanced water. For your next feeding, reduce the nutrient strength by 50% and gradually work your way back up. It’s always better to underfeed than to overfeed.
Problem: Stunted Growth
If your plant just isn’t getting bigger, it could be a few things.
- The Cause: Often, this is due to a pH lockout (see Yellowing on New Growth) or cold temperatures at the root zone. It can also happen if the plant is “root-bound” in a pot that is too small.The Fix: Check your pH first. Ensure root zone temperatures are above 65°F. If the plant has been in its pot for a long time, consider transplanting it to a larger container.
- Yellowing on Lower, Older Leaves: This is a classic sign of Nitrogen deficiency. The plant is moving mobile nutrients from its old leaves to its new growth. You may need to increase your “Veg” nutrient feeding slightly.Yellowing on New Growth (Top of Plant): This often indicates an Iron deficiency, usually caused by an incorrect pH level in your water, which “locks out” the nutrient. Check and adjust your water’s pH to the 5.8-6.5 range.
Problem: Burnt, Crispy Leaf Tips
The tips of your leaves look like they’ve been dipped in fire.
- The Cause: Nutrient Burn. You are feeding your plants too strong of a nutrient solution. The tips are the first place to show the damage.The Fix: Flush your medium with plain, pH-balanced water. For your next feeding, reduce the nutrient strength by 50% and gradually work your way back up. It’s always better to underfeed than to overfeed.
Problem: Stunted Growth
If your plant just isn’t getting bigger, it could be a few things.
- The Cause: Often, this is due to a pH lockout (see Yellowing on New Growth) or cold temperatures at the root zone. It can also happen if the plant is “root-bound” in a pot that is too small.The Fix: Check your pH first. Ensure root zone temperatures are above 65°F. If the plant has been in its pot for a long time, consider transplanting it to a larger container.
Problem: Yellowing Leaves
The location of the yellowing tells you the problem.
- Yellowing on Lower, Older Leaves: This is a classic sign of Nitrogen deficiency. The plant is moving mobile nutrients from its old leaves to its new growth. You may need to increase your “Veg” nutrient feeding slightly.Yellowing on New Growth (Top of Plant): This often indicates an Iron deficiency, usually caused by an incorrect pH level in your water, which “locks out” the nutrient. Check and adjust your water’s pH to the 5.8-6.5 range.
Problem: Burnt, Crispy Leaf Tips
The tips of your leaves look like they’ve been dipped in fire.
- The Cause: Nutrient Burn. You are feeding your plants too strong of a nutrient solution. The tips are the first place to show the damage.The Fix: Flush your medium with plain, pH-balanced water. For your next feeding, reduce the nutrient strength by 50% and gradually work your way back up. It’s always better to underfeed than to overfeed.
Problem: Stunted Growth
If your plant just isn’t getting bigger, it could be a few things.
- The Cause: Often, this is due to a pH lockout (see Yellowing on New Growth) or cold temperatures at the root zone. It can also happen if the plant is “root-bound” in a pot that is too small.The Fix: Check your pH first. Ensure root zone temperatures are above 65°F. If the plant has been in its pot for a long time, consider transplanting it to a larger container.
- The Cause (Usually): Overwatering. The leaves will feel heavy and droop down from the stem. The soil will be dark and wet to the touch. This suffocates the roots, preventing them from absorbing water and oxygen.The Fix: Stop watering! Let the top 1-2 inches of your soil dry out completely before watering again. Ensure your pots have good drainage. To check if you need to water, lift the pot; it should feel light.The Other Cause: Underwatering. The plant will look lifeless and limp, and the leaves will feel dry and papery. The soil will be light and dry. The fix is simple: give it a good watering until you see a small amount of runoff from the bottom of the pot.
Problem: Yellowing Leaves
The location of the yellowing tells you the problem.
- Yellowing on Lower, Older Leaves: This is a classic sign of Nitrogen deficiency. The plant is moving mobile nutrients from its old leaves to its new growth. You may need to increase your “Veg” nutrient feeding slightly.Yellowing on New Growth (Top of Plant): This often indicates an Iron deficiency, usually caused by an incorrect pH level in your water, which “locks out” the nutrient. Check and adjust your water’s pH to the 5.8-6.5 range.
Problem: Burnt, Crispy Leaf Tips
The tips of your leaves look like they’ve been dipped in fire.
- The Cause: Nutrient Burn. You are feeding your plants too strong of a nutrient solution. The tips are the first place to show the damage.The Fix: Flush your medium with plain, pH-balanced water. For your next feeding, reduce the nutrient strength by 50% and gradually work your way back up. It’s always better to underfeed than to overfeed.
Problem: Stunted Growth
If your plant just isn’t getting bigger, it could be a few things.
- The Cause: Often, this is due to a pH lockout (see Yellowing on New Growth) or cold temperatures at the root zone. It can also happen if the plant is “root-bound” in a pot that is too small.The Fix: Check your pH first. Ensure root zone temperatures are above 65°F. If the plant has been in its pot for a long time, consider transplanting it to a larger container.
- The Cause (Usually): Overwatering. The leaves will feel heavy and droop down from the stem. The soil will be dark and wet to the touch. This suffocates the roots, preventing them from absorbing water and oxygen.The Fix: Stop watering! Let the top 1-2 inches of your soil dry out completely before watering again. Ensure your pots have good drainage. To check if you need to water, lift the pot; it should feel light.The Other Cause: Underwatering. The plant will look lifeless and limp, and the leaves will feel dry and papery. The soil will be light and dry. The fix is simple: give it a good watering until you see a small amount of runoff from the bottom of the pot.
Problem: Yellowing Leaves
The location of the yellowing tells you the problem.
- Yellowing on Lower, Older Leaves: This is a classic sign of Nitrogen deficiency. The plant is moving mobile nutrients from its old leaves to its new growth. You may need to increase your “Veg” nutrient feeding slightly.Yellowing on New Growth (Top of Plant): This often indicates an Iron deficiency, usually caused by an incorrect pH level in your water, which “locks out” the nutrient. Check and adjust your water’s pH to the 5.8-6.5 range.
Problem: Burnt, Crispy Leaf Tips
The tips of your leaves look like they’ve been dipped in fire.
- The Cause: Nutrient Burn. You are feeding your plants too strong of a nutrient solution. The tips are the first place to show the damage.The Fix: Flush your medium with plain, pH-balanced water. For your next feeding, reduce the nutrient strength by 50% and gradually work your way back up. It’s always better to underfeed than to overfeed.
Problem: Stunted Growth
If your plant just isn’t getting bigger, it could be a few things.
- The Cause: Often, this is due to a pH lockout (see Yellowing on New Growth) or cold temperatures at the root zone. It can also happen if the plant is “root-bound” in a pot that is too small.The Fix: Check your pH first. Ensure root zone temperatures are above 65°F. If the plant has been in its pot for a long time, consider transplanting it to a larger container.
Is your plant looking a little sad? Don’t panic! Most common clone problems are easy to diagnose and fix if you know what to look for. Here’s a visual guide to some of the most frequent issues.
Problem: Drooping, Wilted Leaves
This is the most common issue, and it almost always comes down to water.
- The Cause (Usually): Overwatering. The leaves will feel heavy and droop down from the stem. The soil will be dark and wet to the touch. This suffocates the roots, preventing them from absorbing water and oxygen.The Fix: Stop watering! Let the top 1-2 inches of your soil dry out completely before watering again. Ensure your pots have good drainage. To check if you need to water, lift the pot; it should feel light.The Other Cause: Underwatering. The plant will look lifeless and limp, and the leaves will feel dry and papery. The soil will be light and dry. The fix is simple: give it a good watering until you see a small amount of runoff from the bottom of the pot.
Problem: Yellowing Leaves
The location of the yellowing tells you the problem.
- Yellowing on Lower, Older Leaves: This is a classic sign of Nitrogen deficiency. The plant is moving mobile nutrients from its old leaves to its new growth. You may need to increase your “Veg” nutrient feeding slightly.Yellowing on New Growth (Top of Plant): This often indicates an Iron deficiency, usually caused by an incorrect pH level in your water, which “locks out” the nutrient. Check and adjust your water’s pH to the 5.8-6.5 range.
Problem: Burnt, Crispy Leaf Tips
The tips of your leaves look like they’ve been dipped in fire.
- The Cause: Nutrient Burn. You are feeding your plants too strong of a nutrient solution. The tips are the first place to show the damage.The Fix: Flush your medium with plain, pH-balanced water. For your next feeding, reduce the nutrient strength by 50% and gradually work your way back up. It’s always better to underfeed than to overfeed.
Problem: Stunted Growth
If your plant just isn’t getting bigger, it could be a few things.
- The Cause: Often, this is due to a pH lockout (see Yellowing on New Growth) or cold temperatures at the root zone. It can also happen if the plant is “root-bound” in a pot that is too small.The Fix: Check your pH first. Ensure root zone temperatures are above 65°F. If the plant has been in its pot for a long time, consider transplanting it to a larger container.